NOPA
Finally tried one of the newer places in my neighborhood, NOPA. It's an abbreviation/contraction/allthecoolkidsaredoingit portmanteau-esque word for NOrh PAnhandle, referring to the area north of the Golden Gate Park panhandle, a strip of park that's more like a boulevard -- a very very big boulevard -- that extends nearly to the geographic midsaggital of the city, which is approximately Divisadero, my old street.
I remember when they were gutting out the old, and large, laundromat in preparation for reopening the space, and, really, they've done a great job with the place. Modern, but more wood than metal, earth tones, some frizzled glass and good lighting, it's also (typically) loud. Full bar, and reasonable menu. If you wanted to just go and fill up on appetizers small-plate style, you could easily do this. However, they have five or six main courses, including a Morroccan tagine, which of course piqued my interest (verdict: very hearty, not served on cous cous, but lots of potato; mine's better and more varied in flavor, but it's not a bad offering). But the warm goat cheese, pickled beets, and frisée was delicious, as was the celery root soup, and the flatbread looked tasty too, as did the little gem lettuce salad.
I'll definitely be going back with Z-Man.
Ravioli Experimentation
Last night, I performed my second attempt at using the Kitchen Aid Ravioli Maker. You may recall my first aborted attempt ended in gooey failure. My suspicion that the dough was, indeed, too soft was put to the test.
I'm still playing around with dough consistency and composition, to see what I like, what holds up, how it transforms after rolling, etc. Last night, I was cooking for Jennconspiracy, so I cook vegan. I used 1 cup of superfine semolina flour and 1 cup regular coarse semolina flour and only a little less than 3/4 cup of water. Yes, that's a dry, dry, dry dough, but all the opinions I've read say that 1) the dough should be leathery (check) and 2) rolling well breaks down the gluten enough to stay together in the boiling water (check).
I love butternut squash, and I based the filling off of this recipe here. I made three subsitutions to make it Jenn-friendly:
- Substitute olive oil for butter. Now, that's kinda sad, given that it's a brown butter sage sauce, and that's what I love most about it, but we're being vegan friendly.
- Substitute garlic herb tofu for ricotta. This was inspired, if I do say so myself. I got a very small packet of garlic and herb marinated tofu and when it came time to purée the squash, I used this instead. Everyone said it was delicious -- and even creamy! When you initially prepare the squash, it gets roasted for a while in the oven with some garlic cloves lightly smashed, so the flavors went well together, and the roasted garlicky goodness made my whole house smell heavenly. The tofu was just right for texture, mouthfeel, and flavor.
- Substitute won ton wrappers for the real deal pasta. This was the whole raison d'etre for even doing this, of course. I've made won ton pasta ravioli before, and you know what? It sucks. It's not the same and I don't think it even comes close.
One of the nicest things about making your own pasta is that you get to season it however you want. I used nutmeg, cinnamon, balinese pepper corns, white pepper, and chocolate bonnet chilie peppers (mild and smoky -- not hot at all in the pasta) for my dough, and it complemented the squash nicely.
With the Kitchen Aid, first you roll out strips of pasta dough, and then you either run them through the cutter or you run them through the ravioli maker. My first roll-through of the dough was almost perfect . . . and then I overworked it and the strip became useless. Gulp. I prayed silently to Vesta and other kitchen spririts that the broken leathery mess I held was my sacrificial offering on the way to success. More carefully, I rolled out the next batch and got some decent strips of pasta.
Meanwhile, I'm having my guests play sous-chefs and they're being good little workers. To fortify them while they toiled, I had some Pride Mountain chardonnay ready and some of my perrennial favorite Buena Vista chilling. Also, a rosemary bread slab with some gouda and marcona almonds too for nibbles. The worked mostly on getting the salad ready: curly escarole, watermelon daikon radish, fennel slices, gold beet julienne, and a light olive oil/tangerine juice dressing with some dried mint and basil.
So, pasta strips are rolled out and ready, resting on layers or waxed parchment. The squash has been puréed with the tofu, let's taste . . . ooo! Good sign! Delicious! And here we go, the moment of truth.
I begin with one of the rolled out ribbons of pasta, fold it and feed it into the cutter. I give the handle a small twist to get it ready, and I can see where the dough pockets out for the filling. With my tiny spoon, I feed a little filling onto the fold. Here we go here we go. Twist the handle . . . okay, it's a bit tough. Apply more pressure. Check surreptitiously to make sure it's not exploding out the sides like it did on me the first time. Sneak a look under the cutter. Huh, look at that. Emboldened, twist it through and keep going.
Gasp! It's . . . it's coming out right!! In short order, I've got an envelope of perforated ravioli, about nine squares. I pull away the extra dough. The ravioli holds up beautifully. The pouches are sticking together, and the outside of the dough is still nice and leathery and tough. The seams are totally fine. OMG!
There's a cheer, some pictures taken, and I start on a longer strip. Again, there's some resistance in the handle-turning, but it's coming out just beautifully -- perfect in fact! Pretty soon, I have a reasonable amount of ravioli. Feeling daring, I take the waste dough, ball it up, and roll out some more strips and get some more ravioli -- I still have some filling, so I save that in the fridge.
Result: delicious. I nearly cried in relief. I can't wait to try again.










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