Mr Squid says: big blog post. Lots of picture and text.

So far, my new camera is exceeding expectations, and I have lots of pictures. The burst feature is especially useful. I used it to take pictures while on the shinkansen (bullet train), and have some excellent pictures of Mt. Fuji from the train, taken at around 100mph or more. Likewise, there's a "bracket" feature that takes three pictures with different exposure levels that's quite helpful, although requires a little file maintenance afterward to get rid of the ones I don't want; it takes three pictures with different exposure settings -- handy, if I'm unsure myself of what setting to use. I haven't gotten to play with the night shots too much yet, but I have taken several panorama shots now, which unfortunately don't come out on Xanga well.
We had an easy morning when we left for Kyoto -- plenty of time at Tokyo station, watching the punctual trains and the team of train cleaners (boys in blue, girls in pink) that swooped down upon our arriving train, cleaned it up for the next passengers, swivelled the chairs around to face the outgoing direction and swooped out again. Step lively! When the hand hits the destination time, the doors close, bells sound, and announcers announce.
Kyoto itself is gorgeous. Even our hotel room and the hotel look really nice. We oriented ourselves a bit and found a restaurant in our guidebook to go to near the downtown district, along the river. We took a route that goes in between two canals that are alongside a river, and it's just stunning. I didn't take many pictures, as I was too focused on getting to our destination, but Aaron took several. There are many, many places along our route, with inviting, aesthetically pleasing entrances. The cuisines were wide ranging too, from what looked like very traditional Japanese dining, to TGI Friday's (yeah, really). There was a lot of French and Italian as well, and even a Mexican place.
We wandered around this main street and it was hard to make progress because of all the different buildings that Aaron needed to photo, but I totally understood. We never found our restaurant, Tosuiro, for a few reasons, including some map differences/conflicts and, most importantly, when we were on the right street and looking right at the place, well, I can't read any Japanese, and Aaron's is self-taught and fledgling. It was only later when we gave up and were at a Japanese Denny's (not really a Denny's, because there are Denny's here, but definitely a friendly family eats kinda place with all Japanese food, with brightly illustrated menus) that he'd seen a place called "Bean Wet" something. As we later learned, it's "Tower," and that was the place, "Bean Wet Tower." All the translations I looked at later seem to want to call it "Bean Wed Tower," but I certainly couldn't tell you which is right, given the very flexible nature of the language.
We tried to hit a few other places, including, desperately, a French one and an Indian one, before settling on the place we ended up, but everything was booked and it was getting late. I'm happy to say that at no time were we tempted by TGI Friday's. There are just some things you don't do on principle.
Anyway, we learned out lesson and took good advice from one of our books: have a Japanese speaker book your table and, if possible, order ahead of time for you. Ms. Shimizu, our hotel Guest Relations manager, was more than happy to perform this service for us, and she wrote out a whole dockett of information to present to Tosuiro when we get there, including the date, time, number in party, and my whole being a vegetarian thing. I think we will do this for the next few days, in fact, despite the weekend being over. Happily, we've got our reservations now and I'm looking forward to trying this traditional Japanese tofu place tonight. Kyoto is apparently especially known for it's tofu.
I've been reading up on the particuarly elaborate political history of Japan, with its warring sects of Shinto and Buddhism (and Buddhism within Buddhism), and the intrigues of the shogunate and the aristocracy. Kyoto has been, on and off, a seat of power in Japan for centuries, until the Edo period moved it pretty much permanently to Tokyo. But this was a place of art, culture, spiritualism, and crafts as well as power plays, and it shows.
Nishi Hongan-ji is the original Buddhist temple in Kyoto, and it's right next door to our hotel, a five minute walk. The compound is a large area with several buildings, including shrines, ryokan hotels, and living quarters for the monks. We arrived in the middle of some service, and after removing our shoes, listened to the chanting and catching a glimpse of the rituals from a side door. The second shrine was open and people -- both gawkers and visitors -- were wandering in and out, sometimes kneeling on the tatami mats, praying, and viewing the shrine. The shrine itself . . . well, I didn't take any pictures of it, because it didn't seem right, but those pictures from Senso-ji in Tokyo give you an idea. I had to kneel down at one point myself to see what it was like to do so on those mats, in that place.
Every time I see a shrine here, though, I want a roadmap to it, because there are just so many things with obvious meaning and symbolism . . . but I have no idea what that would be. Still though, the effect shuts down my higher analytical brain function and just absorbs the whole thing. I can look at the small table, and see four bowls, but the bowl has creatures on it, is positioned at several points on the black laquered table, and some of them have lotus flowers in them. There is the much larger tiered structure of the shrine, raised above the rest, with posts, statues, flowers, designs, but the whole thing is so much visual noise, I'm at sea. In a good way though.
After Nishi Hongan-ji, we decided to go the Kyoto Tower by the train station. It's about 100 meters or so high, and offers a great 360° view of the city, with views as far south as Osaka, which is pretty cool, and we had a clear day at that time. I used my panorama function extensively here, but alas those pictures don't upload into Xanga well. I was able to see the temple we just visited, Nishi Hongan-ji, and it's offshoot rival temple from 1602, Higashi Hongan-ji. The history goes that a particuarly clever shogun, concerned by the growing influence and power of the Buddhist priests in Kyoto, engineered a rift amongst the priests such that a whole schism broke away and formed this temple, dedicated to a new sect of Buddhism the "Pure Land" sect. I think we're going to see this one too, but so far, I've only seen it from the air.
Also visible was some kind of excavation I recognized as using the grid method of exploration. I saw it a lot in Israel, and it's less destructive than just digging straight down into a pit. But this site looked like it had found old timber balks or foundations, and they were clearing all around the timber. Not sure what it was up to, but it looked cool from the sky.
The station was easy to see too, of course, since it was right in front of the tower, and I got to see a shinkansen arriving. All around the city, we could see hints of shrine or statue, and Aaron pointed to the ones we were going to try and visit. I'm taking an unusually passive view of matters. It's weird, when you're used to arranging things for yourself, but I'm not complaining. I seem to be in charge of arranging dinner, and given my restrictions, that's understandable. We could see also To-ji, and even older site that dates from 794, and after the tower, we went to visit it.
Oh, a note about the tower. Being, well, stupid and foreign, we had no idea that the elevator stops on the way down at a lovely café and bar, Kuu, and we got off at this level, which wasn't the exit we expected. It was a happy accident, though, and I had some warming Macallan whisky, and Aaron, some sake. Having visited Scotland a few years back, I understand now why they can drink it so often: it really is nicely bracing against the cold, which is also possibly why they drink so much of it.
But having been mildly warmed on the inside and out, we called the elevator again, but when it opened, there was more than just the friendly lady operator inside. Tthere was this . . . thing. We weren't sure what it was. We'd seen it illustrated all over the tower, and it looked to me like its head was some kind of onion or ornament. Aaron and I were both, well, shocked. There's no other word for it. It made room for us in the elevator, and our terror marginally increased. It wanted us to get in. So we did, because we didn't want to hold up the elevator. It didn't say a word, but it stuck out its padded giant hands, and again, Aaron and I were all, "Bwuh?" It took the prompting of one of the Tower ladies -- a sing-song "Nice to meet yoooouuuu!" -- for us to realize it wanted to shake our hands. We did so, still as "bwuh?" as could be. I was suddenly three again, lightly buzzed, and confronted by a small person in a giant suit in the image of an anthropomorphic christmas tree ornament.
It wasn't until a block or so later that I stopped and realized and said out loud to Aaron, "Oh my god, Aaron, I think that was an anthropomorphic representation of the tower itself! We shook hands with the spirit of the tower!" Once we thought about it, we decided, yeah, it was. Which made it even creepier. Because then I laughed and said in my dirtiest possible voice, "Hello, spirit of the tower. We were all inside you. We went up to your top and came down in you. We went up and down your shaft." Aaron then wisely forbade me to ever say anything like that again. Don't count on it, Aaron.
We then continued to head to To-ji. Alas, it seems like pretty much everything, ever, burned down in Japan, and given the use of wood and the wars over the years, this isn't entirely unexpected. Nonetheless, even the rebuilt places are imnpressive and old. To-ji also has what may be the tallest pagoda in Japan.
It's beautiful. The grounds, despite winter basically arriving -- and it's been cold here, let me assure you -- were still beautiful, though in a more sparse sort of way. As Aaron later pointed out, one nice advantage was that the trees didn't obscure the buildings, if you wanted to photograph them.
Apart from the pagoda, there were two temples, which, alas, I wasn't able to photograph the insides of, because inside were giant statues of Buddha and various attendants. I was transfixed by them, especially the giant Buddhas. They had such presence, and their gazes really did seem real. It felt like you were being watched by gods and spirits and boddhisatvas. The reconstructed buildings were from the 1600s, but they were sufficiently old and smelled of resin, and dark, and had such a mood to them, and the statues were so vibrant inside -- that the whole effect was so transporting, which I think was the idea.
We spent a good while there, my battery finally running out (I need to get a new one). We stopped back at the hotel to bundle up still further, and headed back to Kyoto Station and the tower building to go to a Japanese but veg-friendly restaurant. Alas, it seems to be gone. Fortunately, it's a busy area with lots of options, and we found one particularly odd fusion of food called Popolare ("Popular?"). Aaron got soba, I got Japanese radish salad and (sigh) french fries. They played a lot of 70's music (Shirley Bassey anyone?), heavy rose incense burned, and both westerners and Japanese folks trickled in.
I finally got my ATM card unblocked (my bank had noted my travel on my credit card, but not on my other accounts, so I was locked out of getting money, which was not convenient), and celebrated by buying chocolate Pocky and some kind of citrus infused shochu. I didn't make it through by a glass before turning in.
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